To shape the free edge effectively without drastically altering the nail’s form, remember that the free edge can lose its shape much sooner than a novice expects. You may notice your nail has the right shape before you start, but you suddenly file one side too short, the center too flat, or the sides are no longer symmetrical. This generally is because the filing action wasn’t directed. Filing isn’t just to make the nail shorter; it’s to maintain the shape as you refine the free edge.
First, look at the free edge from the front while the nail is free of the file. Determine whether it is round, square, oval or not even. Then, look at your nail from the side by turning your hand to see the side view. This helps you decide where the nail needs more attention so you don’t file each section of the nail equally. If a particular spot is not even, it doesn’t mean the entire edge requires equal filing.
The angle of your file can also cause your shape to lose its symmetry. If your file is too far down under the nail, you may file your edge too short. It also can change the shape from underneath. If your file is pointing upwards from the front, you may file your edge too high and remove too much from one side. Keep the file near the edge and maintain control. Use slow, short strokes to guide your nail rather than back and forth sawing motions. This can be too much pressure and cause your edge to become uneven; it also can be hard to spot a mistake that has already happened.
An exercise to do mid-session is to pick a specific tip you want to work on and focus your eyes on the middle of the free edge. File one side of that spot and stop to compare the two sides, then move to the other side of that spot. Check both sides from arm’s length to assess the shape. You don’t want to file past the point you are aiming for. Learn to file and then check your progress to make your final assessment rather than assuming you know exactly where you are going.
Corners can disappear quickly, so use caution. If you want to shape a square or soft square, it is tempting to file the corners and round off the sides because they may seem sharp; instead, keep the sides straight and just remove any sharpness. If you want to create an oval, both sides of the tip should be rounded and the center shouldn’t get too narrow. File along the line of your chosen shape instead of filing over and creating a new shape.
Remove dust from the nail to see the true shape and don’t file if the shape is not right. Under good lighting, look at the nail from the front as well as the left and right side. If one side of the nail is shorter, it is tempting to file quickly with several strokes; it is better to take only a few strokes to assess the nail before adding or removing any more. Don’t try to adjust your shape all at once; make small changes and check your progress.
You do not need your shape to be perfect in order for it to be an effective session. The point is, you know why your nail is different, your corners have not been rounded away, your edge has not flattened, and your nail is smoother and has no length removed. Take the file away from your hand while you have your nail in a shape that is still close to what you are aiming for, because timing is important to learn how to file your nail.